Σάββατο, 4 Μαρτίου 2017

Sigri, by "Thetis 2011"...

At 1115 and after 47.5 sea miles, but actually only 43.3, we arrived at Skala Eresou (Σκάλα Ερεσού) on Lesvos (Λέσβος) [39° 08' N 25° 55.7' E]. It is very nice, I have not been here before, and I anchored in 4 m depth letting out 30 m of chain. I launched the dinghy and swam checking the anchor. Then I had lunch and fell asleep in the cockpit. I was woken up by the roar of speed boat towing squealing children on several inflated floats. The speed boats came so close to Thetis that it was unbearable.
I was planning to spend the night here but now I decided to depart for Sigri, a few miles W from here. I was also hoping to speak to Alice on Skype but the GSM signal was only slow GPRS and not the needed 3G. I raised the dinghy on the davits, lashing it in a different way, hoping for an improvement. That seemed to work. I also replaced the autopilot control unit with an older one that I had kept as a spare. I did not connect it to the two SeaTalk cables since it has different connectors.

Shipwreck on the inhospitable shores before Sigri
We departed at 1440 and motored to Sigri, 7.8 nM away with a 15-20 knots WNW headwind. I am beginning to think that I have a motor cruiser and not a sailboat! The autopilot misbehaved again but less so. Maybe the SeaTalk cables have a fault and interfere with the autopilot operation. At any rate, the controller unit is not faulty. Along the way I saw a shipwrecked freighter, and on the small island at the entrance of Sigri Bay, the remains of a sailboat that ran aground many years ago. We arrived at Sigri (Σίγρι) [39° 12.5' N 25° 51.2' E] at 1630. I anchored just S of the Castle in 6 m depth and let out 40 m of chain.
It is lovely and quiet here and there have been no changes since my last visit 5 years ago. There was a nice breeze under the tent and it was comfortable, not too hot. After checking the anchor and a cup of much needed coffee I reconnected the original autopilot controller, cleaning and tightening all of its contacts. Next passage will tell.
Once again the GSM reception was marginal. There were 2 other sailboats nearby: a Greek flagged and a German. The Greek boat left shortly after Thetis’ arrival. I had an ouzo and removed the tent so that I can see the stars during the night. I then roasted some potatoes in oven with just a little olive oil, garlic, and thyme. I ate these with a few slices from the pork roast.
After admiring the stars for a while I went to bed.

Shipwrecked S/Y
The old shipwrecked S/Y at the entrance of Sigri bay.

Monday August 1, 2011, Day 5

I was woken, just before 6, by mosquitoes. I burned one of the repellent spiral coils inside the front cabin in an attempt to discourage them from staying there another day. I turned on the MacBook, received the e-mails, and checked the weather. It will be cooler today with a northerly breeze.
I went ashore and bought some fresh bread, a bottle of the renown Plomari ouzo from Lesvos, and a Mytilini Graviera hard cheese.
Back on Thetis I called Panayiotis in Agmar Marine and discussed Thetis’ problems, especially the autopilot. I then called the lawyer in Samos who had made no progress toward solving the sewage pollution problem. Very frustrating!
I swam a great deal and read. I also washed the dinghy and in the afternoon transferred one jerry can of fuel to the tank. I looked at the forecasts. They are now predicting stronger winds on Wednesday. I debated with myself whether to stick to my plan and sail to Ayios Efstratios, 44 nM from here, and then to Kyra Panayia in the Sporades or to go directly to Kyra Panayia some 83 nM departing tonight. I was somewhat afraid, being singlehanded, of the small harbor in Ayios Efstratios and possible strong winds on Wednesday. At any rate I did not want to arrive at either place late so I had to depart tonight.
The new solar panels combined with the wind generator and the 15 knot breeze, have totally replaced the 45 Ah consumed during the night.
As I was getting ready for an ouzo and while the sun was sinking, a Turkish 50" Benetau came and anchored nearby.
After a hot shower I went ashore to the Remetzo restaurant overlooking the bay. My brother Nikos favors it and when he is here with the Faneromeni he takes a shore line to the small concrete pier just under the restaurant. The owner, Miltos, not only remembered him but also remembered me and Alice. I ordered their special salad with cubes of dried bread (παξιμάδι), and 4 very nicely grilled fresh barbounia - μπαρμπούνια (red mullets - mullus surmuletus). Next to my table sat the crew of the Turkish sailboat. A lady and a gray haired gentleman with an impressive mustache sat at the end of a double table. At the opposite end sat a younger man. They, too, had barbounia which they ate with great relish. We started a conversation across the tables. He is Kemal Zavaro and they had come from the Atakoy Marina in Istanbul where they keep their boat. Soon the young man, obviously the crew, left but the couple stayed and we continued our conversation. Then they called the crewman with their portable VHF and he came back with their dinghy to take them on board.
Based on the forecasted strong winds I decided not to go to Ayios Efstratios but leave right away for Kyra Panayia, Kyra Panayia (Pelagos on many charts). As soon as I returned to Thetis I began my preparations. I raised the dinghy, using the new system. This turned out to be a mistake.

Sunset at Sigri
Sunset at Sigri

Πέμπτη, 29 Ιανουαρίου 2015




Παρασκευή, 15 Αυγούστου 2014

Postcard from a Greek Island #2 – Nature in all her contrasts

By Justine Bothwick
The sun descends in a wash of fiery orange and pink while the sea turns violet and lavender, laying itself out in complement to its reflection above. A stillness falls over the bay, the air holding its breath for what is coming next. We have just finished dinner when a few spots of water darken the balcony floor. Looking up I see heavy clouds are covering the stars and then the sky flashes white. The wind picks up and thunder grumbles to the north. The spots become more frequent and there’s barely time to bring in the drying beach towels before the storm is upon us. Bolt after bolt of lightning thrown down from sky to sea, Zeus and Hephaestus battling it out, animating the scene like the flickering images of an old ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ zoetrope. The noise is terrifying, explosions that force the ear drum inwards while the rain rages on. Now the bay is obscured, just a grey sheet of water, a curtain pulled across . I know there are several sailing boats anchored out there, somewhere: half an hour ago there’d been champagne corks and music. I am very glad to be on land, even if the rain is now creeping under the balcony doors and pooling in various and unexpected areas of the apartment. The roads have turned to rivers, pouring down the slope past our window and still there is no diminishment. Occasionally the clouds swirl apart to reveal a pallid, gibbous moon, but she is not invited tonight, rapidly extinguished by their dark bat wings.

Sunset from the balcony earlier in the evening
Sunset from the balcony earlier in the evening

Lightning splits the sky in two
Then lightning splits the sky in two
Finally, after longer than was diverting, the storm retreats. Rolls of thunder continue and skittering sheets of lightning still illuminate the cloud masses, but they are being pulled apart now, and one by one the stars return.
The next morning, the air is fresh and through the village echoes the sound of water being swept away and neighbours comparing notes on damage and flooding. Some hazy clouds have lingered and at the beach the sea licks contritely at my calves as I wade along the shore.
as if the storm never happened. View from Sigri surf centre
As if the storm never happened. View from Sigri surf centre the next morning.
Later we cycle north up the coast, taking the road that leads inland before turning east back to the sea. Here there are isolated villas with gardens irrigated to a bright verdant green, incongruous against the island’s otherwise terra-cotta landscape.
The Black-eared Wheatear is a common sight in Sigri
The Black-eared Wheatear is a common sight in Sigri
Wheatears perch on rocks and low electricity lines. Swallows careen across an emerald field of clover, purple flowers just coming into bloom. I stop to investigate but am distracted by a large green stick that hops off the sprig I have plucked. I look closer and see orange eyes and alien forked head, body designed to mimic exactly a large blade of grass. I watch as this small, incredible creature finally tires of my gaze and jumps back into the mass of plants: an instantly invisible phasmid.
The disguise works better in a field of grass
The disguise works better in a field of grass

Postcard from a Greek island #1 – Arrival

By Justine Bothwick


For a second year we are spending August in Sigri, Lesvos. This small and sleepy fishing village lies at the end of a long road that snakes over the spine of the island away from the port and its ferries and cars and lorries and cargo; tourists waiting for boats in harbourside bars and restaurants. The trip takes you through hillsides of olive trees, some areas scarred black from scrub fires, past salt pan waters dotted with prawn-pink flamingoes. On past the town at the crossroads that swelters in its basin and up into the central heights where the air is cooler and rugged stone monasteries look down like monks in prayer from skeletal, vertiginous outcrops. The road continues its switchback course, down over the ridge, passing a scattering of white houses and terracotta tiled roofs. The land grows in breadth as it opens up beyond the pass and the light reflects back from umber rocks and the harsh ochre of dried grass and bush, inducing a mild case of photo-sensitivity, even behind a pair of sunglasses. A new road is being hewn into the side of the hill and the shapes of ancient, petrified trees rise out of the dust and rubble, protected for now by a utilitarian coating of plaster – the bones of ancient monsters exposed by modern machinery.
Approaching Sigri
The road descends further and round a corner, finally, the bay sweeps into view; its glittering water, inlets and coves all watched over by the lazy, feline mound of the isle of Nissiopi opposite . At the southern edge of the coast, on a jutting peninsula, a cluster of buildings fall down the final slope to the small fishing harbour. The ruins of an old Ottoman fort are sketched in carbon against a vesperal sky. A restaurant on the sea-front is festooned with garlands of octopus tentacles which sway in the wind above the heads of the nut-brown, sea-weathered men who sit with a glass of ouzo in one hand and a clicking loop of kombolói – worry beads – in the other. The Meltemi is late this year, but here, at the edge of the village, standing in front of a handful of tiny carmine, white and indigo boats moored in the harbour, a breeze is kicking up heads of sea foam out towards the horizon.
Fishing boat in the harbour
The Kastro at sunset
The Kastro at sunset
It all feels a wonderfully long way from home.

Κυριακή, 20 Ιουλίου 2014

Sigri, by Laura Wilson


2 studios to let, at Phaneromeni beach, just a few meters from the sea. Bedroom, kitchen, wc, balcony garden and view to the sea. Per month or per year.
Contact +22530 22440, +697 8890 674, +22530 54392

Κυριακή, 22 Ιουνίου 2014

It is worth reaching the end!

It is worth reaching the end - Sigri – June 2014
I live in the centre of Liverpool, England – home of the Beatles, two football teams and a history of political opposition to national governments! But away from urban living I’ve been lucky enough to be introduced to Sigri by my friend Pat Mary who has been coming here for long periods for many years.
This year was my fifth visit in 10 years and as ever the sun warms your skin and the people your heart.
 Highlights for me this year were:

Inflating my tyre!!
I’m a pathetic non swimmer but because I really envy those swimming in the tranquil waters of the town beach among the shoals of little fishes I brought my own adults’ swimming ring that was made to look like a tyre. But I found to my horror it had to be inflated by machine – what could I do? A visit to Adonis with my problem was the answer and hey presto he found a kind person to blow it up for me. Next time I will have learned to swim honest!!
Birds – on the way to Faneromeni, by the flat marshy bit before the little church of Prophitis Ilias on the high mound, I saw on the same morning two egrets, two ruddy shelducks and ... two black storks! On the way back to the airport I saw flamingos at Kalloni.
Horses – some magnificent stallions and mares (as well as a sweet foal) were in and around the village this year.
Food – of course! There was wonderful fish at all the tavernas including sea bream, sea bass and red mullet. Local dishes such as gigantes (butter beans) and meatballs were excellent. The souvlaki bar served not only excellent food but also, on this visit, excellent music from visiting musicians. The church festival ended with a buffet and many plates of homemade savouries and pastries were pressed upon us. Every day brought pies and tasty breads from the bakery; locally grown plums, peaches, and vegetables of all kinds from the green grocer and everything you could ever need from Georgia’s shop. Last but not least an invitation to a local home for coffee introduced us to homemade preserved figs in syrup, peach kernel liquor and melt in the mouth cake.
Petrified Forest  I have to go to the Petrified Forest Museum every time I come to Sigri as it is truly unique and amazing. The staff are always helpful and eager to answer any queries. On this visit Spiros, taking me back to Mytilene by taxi, explained that the women I saw working with the road-widening crew were specialists there to identify any new petrified trees emerging from the rock. Indeed he stopped and showed me where two tree trunks had been found and could be seen quite clearly.

I only stayed for 10 days but all this happened and I know I will have forgotten some things.

What can I say? The Beatles say it for me below (and by the way the font is from a charity for homeless people in Spain and has been formed from their writing on street placards http://www.homelessfonts.org/buy/)

There are places I remember (Beatles, lyrics Paul McCartney)

There are places I remember all my life
Though some have changed
Some forever, not for better
Some have gone and some remain
And I know Ill never lose affection
For people and things that went before
I know Ill often think about them
In my life I loved you more
Steph Petrie

Παρασκευή, 28 Ιουνίου 2013


Παρασκευή, 21 Ιουνίου 2013

"Cacao tribe" in Sigri!!!


Τετάρτη, 17 Απριλίου 2013

Flats for rent

Flats for rent all year round, fireplace, air condition, large verandas and unlimited view.
Situated  near the Natural History Museum and Petrified Forest (50m) in Sigri ,and near the beach.
Ideal for families with young children.
Wohnungen zu vermieten das ganze Jahr,Kamin,Klimaanlage,grosse Verandas ,unendliche Aussicht.50m von dem Naturgeschichte Museum des versteinerten Waldes  und Strand entfernt.
Ideal fur Familien mit kleinkindern.

Δευτέρα, 4 Μαρτίου 2013

A nice house to rent!

The house is next to the sea, it has very nice views. Overlooks the Aegean Sea, the castle and beach. The house has two bedrooms, one small and one large bathroom, living room with fireplace in this room can be sleep another person. Also dining room - kitchen which is equipped with all small and large electrical appliances as well as a washing machine. There are two air conditioners, cold and heat. The house has two balconies overlooking the sea and a courtyard. The rental price is 60 euros per day but can be done and settled. The rent of the house throughout the year every month 300 euros, again settled. 
info: molioum@hotmail.com
Αν το νοικιάσετε μόνο το καλοκαίρι, ανά ημέρα  είναι 50ευρώ

Τρίτη, 30 Οκτωβρίου 2012

Τρίτη, 3 Ιουλίου 2012

Kees and Joke, about Sigri...

It is with great pleasure that we write on this blog about our stay in Sigri during the last week of May 2012.
We had a very good time in a beautiful apartment of the Villa Anastasia. 
Because it was our intention to walk in the environment, we followed some promenades of the North and South beaches. The views on Sigri and the surrounding mountains are spectacular because of the vastness of the landscape in which the sea and the rocks seem to struggle as well to embrace each other at the same time. Furthermore the flora of specific Mediterranean plants and parts of petrified trees, combined with animals, like small turtles and several species of birds (even an Owl) made us very happy to be there. 
Every evening we went to Café Kentro to have access to internet and a chat with the owner Mr. Andonis Choitis and some other guests. Besides his conversations, we enjoyed very much his special teas, coffees and - not to forget- those delightful pastries. We could not stay long enough to taste all the different flavors of food and drinks that were offered. 

We also enjoyed walking through the bright small streets of Sigri.
One of the nicest shops was that of local jeweller Mr. Chatziandeou, who stayed for several years in our country (the Netherlands) to expand his professional expertise. There we bought one of the many very small boats that decorate the walls of his beautiful shop. We consider these boats, besides the jewellery he makes, as real works of art, unique in the world. He collects in wintertime tiny pieces of driftwood at the beach and makes boats of it. The models have the original shape of the fisher boats of Lesvos.
It is one of our most special souvenirs we ever bought.
Completing our stay we visited the National History Museum that gives an impressive insight in the volcanic history of Lesvos and natural history in general. We were very surprised and pleased to see a school class of children practising excavations of petrified wood by a very good imitation of professional practices and - by doing so - were learning while playing and vice versa.
 Besides Sigri, we visited three other places on Lesvos, but we did not met local people in a more personal way. May be the reason for this is that Sigri was less populated with tourists (as far as we could see).
In any case we like to think that ‘Sigrians’ are the most open and friendly people of all Lesvos.
As we look at the small boat on the wall in our living room, we will remember these people and of course their friendly town in its impressive surrounding landscapes.

Kees and Joke

Κυριακή, 1 Ιουλίου 2012

Jolanta's beautiful aquarelas

 Jolanta Uktverytėis from Lithuania. She is one of the muster students for “Sustainable Tourism”, who were in Sigri for two weeks. 
And these are some aquarelas of her!
They are so nice!
Thank you Jolanta!